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The ambiance of Dewakan is very much suited for dates and smaller sized parties. Calming music, a quiet kitchen and a zen-like atmosphere helps put guests into a relaxed state. Tables are well spaced apart, giving a greater sense of intimacy and privacy when dining, and the restaurant features a main dining area and a small lounge. All in all, the restaurant feels very comfortable thanks to its calm pacing and with limited tables that simulates a more focused dining experience.
The food at Dewakan is a creative and inventive reimagining of what modern Malaysian food should look and taste like. The menu only offers two choices, either a five-course or 10-course meal and a selection of mains to decide from.
The first dish of a five-course meal is a cured blue mackerel. With a clean floral taste, thanks to the presence of edible flowers and pomelo, the dish is an interesting beginning to the meal. The second course – roasted king oyster mushrooms done two ways – is a winner. The first method features raw mushrooms on a dollop of green curry pesto and is a delicious melding of flavours and textures. The cooked version is also a delight to eat, with a garlicky sauce and perfectly executed mushrooms to make for a total winner.
The third course highlights braised aubergine in mushroom stock, jackfruit seeds, black bean sauce and garlic emulsion, a dish that is savoury, slightly bitter from the mixture of vegetables but ultimately intriguing to the taste buds. The main course – roast duck breast, duck leg rillettes with beetroots and ‘blood sauce’ – is juicy, salty and immensely flavourful.
Dessert is also pleasing and comes in two parts, the first being a concoction of mulberry snow, cashews and white chocolate ganache is a sour and refreshing palate cleanser. The last item to be served is a halved cempedak popsicle stick that makes for a unique Malaysian twist.
The wine list has a moderate selection of whites and reds to accompany your meal and according to the staff, these bottles are carefully selected to complement the food served at the restaurant.
Service here is fantastic, with attentive, knowledgeable waiters and a polite staff. Waiters explain, to great detail, every course and are kind enough to answer any questions poised to them. Water glasses are consistently topped, a testament to the staff’s attentiveness, which is in no small part due to the limited occupancy rate at any given time.
A glass of wine, a bottle of mineral water and a five-course meal costs around RM230 per person, which is a decent price for a rather interesting dining experience.